Name: Forbidden Peak West Ridge
SKU: 362557

The West Ridge of Forbidden Peak is an outstanding alpine route and has proven its standing as one of the . A true Cascadian approach (read: overgrown and rugged) leads climbers to Boston Basin, an iconic rock amphitheater choked with glacial ice that feeds the creeks and lush meadows below. From camp, the alpine climbing possibilities fan out 180 degrees from Mount Torment to Sahale Peak. Directly above camp looms Forbidden Peak, and from the basin it’s easy to understand how the ominous peak got its name. Left of Forbidden’s summit is the West Ridge, which extends up from the notch in the granite ridge extending over a mile to Mount Torment. The East Ridge of Forbidden, an impressive climb in it’s own right, creates the right skyline towards the sharp point of Sharkfin Tower. The final peak on the skyline is Sahale, a moderate glacier climb the culminates in a 4th class rock finish with a spectacular view of the North Cascades.

The Route

The West Ridge route begins from camp with a perfect warm up climb up on angle snow and a rapidly receding glacier, which soon becomes a steep snow couloir. In early season, this couloir extends to the notch at the start of the West Ridge proper and later it becomes difficult and climbers opt to take the Cat Scratch Gullies, a scrappy option that lends some grit to the climb.

Once at the notch, beautiful granite is the only thing between you and the summit. The climbing is grippy, blocky and featured and mostly low 5th class. The crux weighs in at 5.6 but isn’t sustained for long and the exposure is as incredible as the views. The movement is fun and fluid and it makes for a great climb. Once atop Forbidden’s small summit block, climbers are rewarded with incredible views of Mount Buckner, the Boston Glacier, the Forbidden Glacier, Johannesburg Peak.

After taking a few moments on the summit, it’s time to descend. The easiest way down is to reverse the ascent, and this is often as time consuming as the ascent. Be ready for engaging down-climbing and rappels.

Once we’re back to camp, it’s time to drop the gear, have a nice meal and get some well-earned rest!

Requisite Experience

This climb is for experienced alpine climbers. Participants should be comfortable with ice axes and crampons and move well on 3rd and 4th class rock. Climbers should have experience on 5th class rock terrain and being able to follow rock climbing up to 5.8 difficulty is a big advantage. If you are an experienced rock climber and are looking to add crampons and ice ax skills to your repertoire, we can train these skills at camp. Overall, this is a demanding climb that requires excellent fitness and some movement basics that can be honed on route. It will feel much more physically demanding the less experience (and efficiency) you have on rock terrain.